“La bella figura” is a way of life in Italy. It’s what comes to mind when you think of Italian style: chicness, boldness, glamor, drama, and personality. It’s why Italians always look their best, whether they’re running errands or going to dinner. It's why Italian jewelry is among the most coveted in the world for both craftsmanship and design.

In this article, we’re exploring the heritage of some of Italy’s most esteemed jewelry houses—Buccellati, Bulgari, Marina B, and Roberto Coin—and the artistry that makes Italian jewelry a symbol of luxury and sophistication.

A Brief History of Italian Jewelry

Italian jewelry dates back centuries–influenced by the rich cultures of the Etruscan, Roman, and Byzantine empires. These early civilizations shaped the foundations of goldsmithing, with intricate techniques like filigree and granulation emerging as hallmarks of Italian jewelry design. During the Roman Empire, elaborate designs often adorned with gemstones, conveyed status and wealth, while Byzantine artisans perfected techniques for working with gold and enamel.

As the medieval period gave way to the Renaissance, Italian jewelry reached new heights of artistry. Metalworking techniques advanced, and jewelers gained a reputation for their expertise in gemstone cutting, engraving, and enameling. Florence became known for its vibrant enamel techniques, while Naples established itself as a center of rich goldsmithing traditions. These regional styles evolved, giving rise to distinct schools of craftsmanship that persisted through the centuries.

Throughout Italy’s history, goldsmiths developed various techniques that continue to define Italian jewelry today. Often 18 karat or higher and typically seen in yellow, gold was traditionally the metal of choice. Artisans pioneered intricate techniques that remain popular, like Buccellati’s Rigato technique, which gives the metal a fine, silk-like texture.

The evolution of Italian jewelry has been one of balancing centuries-old tradition with modern innovation, fusing its artisans to the forefront of the luxury market.

Buccellati: The Prince of Goldsmiths

Founded in 1919 by Mario Buccellati, this Milan-based jewelry house distinguished itself through a unique aesthetic and mastery of goldsmithing. Its signature techniques include Rigato (fine line engraving), **Modellato** (high-relief carving), and Ornato (ornamental designs), which result in strikingly textured surfaces that highlight their incredible craftsmanship.

Buccellati’s handcrafted approach is unrivaled, with each piece meticulously created by skilled artisans using high-quality gemstones and precious metals. The brand’s most celebrated technique, known as “brushed” or “woven” metalwork, makes the metal appear like fabric—a silk-like weave that is a testament to Buccellati’s exceptional craftsmanship and ancient artisanship. This signature style can be seen in many of the brand’s iconic pieces, which are as intricate as they are luxurious.

Bulgari: A Journey of Magnificence

Bulgari’s story began in 1884 when Sotirios Voulgaris, a Greek silversmith, founded the brand in Rome. Over the years, Bulgari has become synonymous with bold designs that challenge convention. The house gained recognition for its expressive use of color and heavy metalwork, with bold gold designs and bezel settings that broke away from the delicate styles of the time.

Zendaya wears a Bulgari Serpenti necklace at the 2021 Venice Film Festival for the premiere of her movie *Dune*. The making of this necklace is a central focus of the documentary “Inside the Dream” on Amazon Prime.
Image credit: Getty Images

One of Bulgari’s most iconic collections is the Serpenti line, inspired by the serpent motif, symbolizing wisdom and vitality. These pieces, from necklaces to watches, have graced countless red carpets and exemplify Bulgari’s ability to blend classical motifs with contemporary design. Bulgari’s approach to design is often characterized by its use of vibrant gemstone combinations, pushing boundaries with daring yet elegant creations.

Marina B: The Trailblazer

Marina Bulgari is widely considered one of the most influential women in jewelry. The granddaughter of Sotirios Voulgaris, Marina Bulgari made a name for herself while furthering the family legacy with her unique spin on designs. Marina, who is an engineer by trade, was known for inventing gemstone cuts and reinventing classic ones that reflected her technical expertise and creativity.

Marina B Selma collar with emerald and diamond. — Marina B Selma collar necklace with emeralds and diamonds.

She left the family business in the 1970s to start her own brand, Marina B, and pushed the envelope with geometric shapes and vibrant color combinations. Marina introduced the groundbreaking concept of monture cachee, which translates to hidden setting – her pieces appeared as though the stones were floating. Her work continues to influence the industry by blending the precision of engineering with the artistry of high jewelry, solidifying her legacy in the world of fine jewelry.

Vintage and antique watches varied widely in design, with models showcasing a spectrum of design aesthetics, from minimalist to bold and avant-garde. Watchmaking brands embraced unique styles, reflecting the aesthetic preferences of their time and pushing the boundaries of watch design. For example, the Art Deco influences of the 1920s and 1930s are embodied in the geometric designs and intricate details of watches from that era.

Cazzaniga

Cazzaniga, based in Valenza, Italy, is recognized for its precision craftsmanship and innovative approach to jewelry design. The brand is known for its meticulous goldsmithing, often incorporating geometric patterns and bold shapes with high-quality gemstones. Each piece reflects Italy’s deep-rooted jewelry-making traditions, while embracing modern design elements that appeal to contemporary collectors.

Cazzaniga’s commitment to quality and creativity has earned it a strong reputation among fine jewelry connoisseurs. The brand’s ability to produce bespoke, highly detailed pieces ensures that its jewelry remains sought after, blending classic Italian techniques with modern artistry.

Falize: French-Italian Artistry

Falize, founded by Lucien Falize in 19th-century Paris, made significant contributions to jewelry design through its mastery of enamel work. The house introduced cloisonné enameling to high jewelry, drawing inspiration from Japanese art and historical motifs. Falize’s designs are noted for their vibrant colors, intricate patterns, and precise craftsmanship, combining French elegance with Italian technical expertise.

Known for its artistic innovation, Falize set new standards in the jewelry industry. Its pieces, often depicting nature and mythology, continue to be highly regarded for their craftsmanship and design, making Falize an important name in both antique and modern jewelry collections.

Castellani: Etruscan Revival

Castellani, established in Rome by Fortunato Pio Castellani, is renowned for reviving ancient Etruscan jewelry techniques such as granulation and filigree. The brand’s pieces, inspired by archaeological finds, are meticulously crafted to reflect the rich heritage of Italy’s ancient goldsmithing traditions.

Castellani’s focus on historical accuracy and technical precision made it a leader in the antique jewelry market. Its creations remain highly valued for their craftsmanship and historical significance, offering collectors a direct link to Italy’s past through expertly crafted jewelry.

Pomellato: Bold, Colorful, Modern

Pomellato was founded in 1967 by Pino Rabolini, who set out to create prêt-à-porter jewelry—pieces that were bold, colorful, and designed to be worn every day. Pomellato gained a following for its daring designs that challenged the more traditional norms of the jewelry world. Pomellato boasts itself as the first global Italian fashion fine jewelry.

The Pomellato style is marked by vibrant gemstones, unique settings, and a playful aesthetic. Pomellato’s most notable collections include the Nudo, Sabbia, and Iconica series, all featuring striking combinations of colorful gemstones and sleek, contemporary designs.

The Nudo collection, for example, is known for its minimalist yet bold single-stone rings that come in various gemstones. Pomellato continues to push the boundaries of modern jewelry design, making it an unmistakable trendsetter in the mid-range luxury market.

Roberto Coin: The Embrace of Passions

Established in 1996, Roberto Coin has become a symbol of creativity and romance in the jewelry world. Based in Vicenza, Italy—often referred to as the “City of Gold”—Roberto Coin’s designs are celebrated for their intricate details and the hidden ruby gemstone inside each piece, a personal signature that symbolizes love, health, and happiness.

Roberto Coin’s collections, such as Love in Verona and Venetian Princess, highlight the brand’s dedication to craftsmanship. The Love in Verona collection draws inspiration from the romance of Verona, while the Venetian Princess collection features elegant designs reminiscent of the Renaissance and the city of Venice.

As seen on “red carpet”

Actress Kate Beckinsale wearing Roberto Coin

RCM: “The Jeweler’s Jeweler” of Italy

RCM, founded in 1969 by master goldsmiths Lorenzo Ricci, Adriano Corbellini, and Guerino Manfrinati, is known for its exceptional craftsmanship and artistically advanced design. Based in Valenza, Italy’s traditional goldsmithing district, RCM creates one-of-a-kind and limited-production jewels that are coveted by collectors around the world.

With a reputation for designing and manufacturing couture jewelry for some of the world’s most distinguished brands, including Van Cleef & Arpels, and Graff, RCM’s work is recognized for its technical precision and artistic beauty. The jeweler has crafted pieces for royalty and celebrities, including the famous FRED Paris necklace worn by Julia Roberts in the film Pretty Woman.

Julia Roberts wears FRED Paris by RCM
Image credit: Buena Vista Pictures

RCM was commissioned to create a piece for the Sultan of Brunei. The breathtaking result was a 15-carat blue diamond encircled by a lotus flower made of over 1400cts of pink and yellow diamonds atop a rubellite vase. Artwork like this showcases the brand’s ability to create masterpieces that blend rare gemstones with exceptional design. This legacy of excellence continues to make RCM a name synonymous with Italian- and world-class luxury.

Final Remarks

The centuries-long tradition of masterful craftsmanship in Italian jewelry has given rise to some of the world’s most iconic designs and techniques. From Buccellati’s intricate goldwork to Bulgari’s bold use of color and Roberto Coin’s hidden ruby signature, Italian jewelers have become leaders of bold artistry.

These jewelry houses have not only preserved the traditions of their craft but have also pushed the boundaries of innovation, creating pieces that are as timeless as they are modern. If you own Italian jewelry from these renowned houses and are considering selling, Windsor Jewelers offers a trusted avenue to showcase and value your treasures. Contact our team today to explore how your Italian jewels can find a new home while preserving their legacy of luxury.

Italian Jewelry: The Heritage of Bulgari, Buccellati, and More