How Georgian Jewelry Reflects 18th and 19th Century Fashion

The Georgian era was a time of grandeur in England from 1714-1830s. Art, science, international trade, and architecture flourished. Brilliant minds like Jane Austen, William Blake, and Lord Byron put words to paper. Music by Mozart, Beethoven, and Handel floated through ballrooms and parlors while extravagantly dressed gentlemen and ladies danced adorned with lavish jewels. A class structure was emerging from a growing international trade network, and jewelry was a clear symbol of economic standing.

Named after the four King Georges who ruled Britain from 1714 to 1830, the Georgian era saw the rise of meticulously handcrafted jewelry showcasing exquisite craftsmanship, innovative techniques, and luxurious materials worn by both men and women. Fanciful jewelry accentuated the rich, textured fabrics on women’s wide-hooped gowns and men’s 3-piece suits. Today, collectors seek out Georgian jewelry pieces for their timeless beauty and historical significance.

The Essence of Georgian Jewelry: Materials and Craftmanship

Georgian 14K yellow gold bracelet with emerald, ruby, and pearl.

The hallmark of Georgian jewelry lies in its extraordinary craftsmanship. Artisans of this era meticulously hand-crafted each piece, often working with gold and silver and incorporating precious gemstones such as diamonds, emeralds, rubies, and sapphires. Unlike today’s mass-produced pieces, every Georgian-era jewel was handcrafted, often requiring months or even years to complete. Jewelers carefully shaping intricate designs through techniques such as repoussé (hammering metal from the reverse side to create a raised pattern) and cannetille (an ornamental filigree work resembling delicate lace).

Georgian 14K yellow gold and silver ring with peridot, diamond, and opal

Precious gemstones played a significant role in Georgian jewelry. Diamonds, emeralds, rubies, and sapphires were often set in closed-back settings, sometimes lined with foil to enhance their brilliance. Enameling was another popular technique, adding vibrant colors and intricate details to rings, brooches, and pendants.

Notable Georgian Jewelry Pieces

Mourning Rings: Created by renowned jewelers like Mellerio dits Meller and Garrard, mourning rings featured black enamel with diamonds and pearls to symbolize grief and remembrance. These sentimental pieces often bore inscriptions or locks of hair from the deceased.

Portrait Miniature Brooches and Pendants: Jewelers framed delicate portrait miniatures with pearls or garnets, merging fine art with jewelry-making. These brooches and pendants were cherished keepsakes, serving as intimate mementos of loved ones.

Fashion and Jewelry Styles in the 18th Century

The 18th century was a period of extravagance, reflected in both clothing and jewelry. Women of high society adorned themselves with ornate pieces that showcased dazzling gemstones and elaborate designs. Jewelry styles during this era were heavily influenced by the Rococo movement, known for its flowing, asymmetrical, and nature-inspired motifs.

Signature Jewelry Styles

Girandole Earrings: Designed by jewelers such as Jean-Baptiste Fossin, these chandelier-style earrings featured a central gemstone with three dangling drops, often encrusted with diamonds.

Stomachers: These large brooches, worn on the bodice of a gown, were masterpieces crafted by houses like Chaumet. Encrusted with diamonds and colored gemstones, stomachers symbolized wealth and status.

Diamond Floral Sprays and Bouquets: Inspired by nature, these decorative pieces were created by jewelers like Vever (founded in 1821). Worn in the hair or as corsage ornaments, these designs reflected the era’s fascination with botanical beauty.

During this time, paste jewelry (glass cut to simulate precious stones) became increasingly popular, allowing the middle class to emulate the opulence of the aristocracy without the high cost of genuine gemstones.

Transition of Aesthetic Values: Jewelry in the 19th Century

The dawn of the 19th century brought a shift in aesthetic preferences, influenced by the Neoclassical movement. Jewelry designs became more symmetrical and structured, drawing inspiration from ancient Greek and Roman art and culture. Cameos, intaglios (Italian meaning “to carve”), and classical motifs dominated this era.

Key Georgian Jewelry Trends of the 19th Century

Cameo Parures: Castellani was famous for crafting matching jewelry sets (parures) featuring intricately carved cameos depicting mythological and historical scenes.

Castellani cameo parures.

Intaglio Signet Rings: Houses like Hancocks specialized in creating intaglio signet rings, often used as personal seals for correspondence, engraved with family crests or monograms.

The Industrial Revolution also had a profound impact on jewelry production, making fine jewelry more accessible to the emerging middle class. Innovations such as electroplating and machine-made chains revolutionized the industry, while newly discovered gemstone sources provided a greater variety and increased access to stones.

Iconic Georgian Jewelry Pieces and Their Influence on Fashion

Some of the most memorable pieces from the Georgian era continue to inspire contemporary jewelry design. Among these iconic pieces are:

Lover’s Eye Brooches: Created by jewelers like Rundell, Bridge & Rundell, these brooches featured a miniature painting of a loved one’s eye, surrounded by pearls or gemstones. These sentimental adornments were both mysterious and romantic, serving as private mementos of cherished relationships.

Rivière Necklaces: Crafted by renowned jewelers like Mellerio dits Meller and Chaumet, these necklaces featured a continuous line of gemstones, symbolizing wealth and elegance. The rivière necklace remains a staple in high jewelry today.

Pendeloque Earrings: These luxurious drop earrings, often encrusted with diamonds, follow a distinctive cluster-bow-drop design. They balanced the height of elaborate wigs and added a striking accent to formal attire.

The Lasting Legacy of Georgian Jewelry in Modern Fashion

Georgian jewelry's intricate craftsmanship and timeless elegance continue to captivate modern designers and collectors. Many contemporary jewelers draw inspiration from Georgian-era aesthetics, incorporating historical techniques into their pieces. Some notable brands and designers include:

Van Cleef & Arpels: Known for its exquisite craftsmanship, this jewelry house often incorporates Georgian-style motifs and repoussé techniques in its high jewelry collections.

Jessica McCormack: This designer embraces Georgian-era aesthetics, using cutdown settings and button-back designs in engagement rings and statement jewelry. Zendaya’s Jessica McCormack engagement ring is a perfect example of this revival.

Buccellati: Famous for its delicate filigree work, Buccellati continues the legacy of cannetille, a defining technique of Georgian-era jewelry.

Georgian jewelry remains a symbol of luxury and sophistication, proving that true artistry never goes out of style. Whether you’re looking to sell or simply appreciate the beauty of these historical pieces, understanding their craftsmanship and history adds to their allure.

Thinking About Selling Your Georgian Jewelry?

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