From Romance to Royalty: The Timeless Love Story Behind Van Cleef & Arpels

Alred Van Cleef and Estelle Arpels

The story of Van Cleef & Arpels is a bejeweled tale of love rooted in a shared passion for precious stones and fine jewelry. Throughout the years, Van Cleef & Arpels' exceptional craftsmanship and exquisite designs have evoked poetic emotions and captivated the hearts of many. Join us as we journey through a legacy of excellence, the alluring story of one of the most revered names in haute jewelry design.

A Glimpse Into Love-Laced Beginnings

Van Cleef & Arpels' voyage began in the heart of Paris. It dates back to 1895 when Estelle Arpels, the daughter of an esteemed merchant of precious stones, married Alfred Van Cleef, the son of a lapidary (a gemstone cutter) — this was a union that would blossom into the famed Van Cleef & Arpels empire we know today.

Estelle and Alfred shared a passion for jewelry and were driven by a long-standing vision to build something impressive, so they partnered with Estelle's brothers to open the first-ever Van Cleef & Arpels boutique at the iconic Place Vendôme Square in 1906.

The Maison's first few decades in business coincided with the Golden Twenties, a time of awakening and innovation. During these years, Van Cleef & Arpels' recognizable and timeless style was forged, making the House a pioneer in jewelry design. Blending tradition with innovation, Renée Puissant, Estelle's and Alfred's daughter and Van Cleef's then-creative director, molded enchanting creations, which many have described as 'poetry set in stone.' Van Cleef & Arpels' exquisite designs went on to adorn high society and the most illustrious members of international royal courts. The Duke and Duchess of Windsor and the Prince and Princess of Monaco helped transform the Maison into a symbol of sophistication and luxury.

Van Cleef & Arpels Most Cherished Vintage Jewels: The Heritage Collection

The Maison's journey through the 20th century brought to life many of their celebrated designs, which still shine bright today. Many of these collections are still available for purchase at Van Cleef & Arpels.

  • 1920s–1930s: Crafted in true Art Deco fashion, the 1920s–1930s was an era of elegance and innovation at the Maison, blending geometry with new jewelry techniques and a time that bears Renée Puissant's creative mark.

  • 1940s–1950s: Designs from the mid-20th century were inspired by couture, with Van Cleef & Arpels artisans striving to create “gold centric designs that mimicked ropes and woven textiles.”

  • 1960s–1970s: Pieces from the 1960s–1970s blended shapes and colors in unconventional combinations and were inspired by the Arpels brothers' travels around Asia.

  • 1980s and beyond: Leaning towards simple elegance, the late decades of the 20th century revealed simple lines juxtaposed with vivid and bold colors and materials new to the Maison such as wood and ceramic.

Forward Thinking and Timeless Innovation

Van Cleef & Arpels' alluring designs are characterized by unparalleled craftsmanship and quality of materials, with the Maison's ethos centered around poetry, mythical creatures, nature, and the cosmos. From engagement rings to jewelry embodying literary reinventions, Van Cleef & Arpels is ever committed to telling stories in meticulous, sparkling detail. 

Van Cleef & Arpels built upon its roaring success during the 1920s, releasing designs that continued to exude elegance while innovating at the forefront of jewelry-making. In 1933, the Maison's clever creations earned it a patent for a proprietary gem setting style that marked a legendary milestone in the Van Cleef & Arpels' journey — the Mystery Setting.

The Mystery Setting

The Mystery Setting building technique sets stones in such a way that the metal setting is concealed, creating a seamless flow that gives the illusion of free-standing gemstones. Indeed, this became a long-celebrated breakthrough of the Maison's craftsmanship efforts. 

The Mystery Setting is appreciated throughout Van Cleef & Arpels' creations, including their statement Mythical Couples watch collection. Sophisticated designs conceal treasured secrets on the most alluring pieces. Watches tell the love stories of mythical couples like Philémon & Baucis and Ulysse & Pénélope. These secret watches, set on domes of precious gemstones such as emeralds, sparkling diamonds, and sapphires, appear as beautiful bracelets when the dial is concealed.

The Zip Necklace

The Zip necklace, a beacon of innovation in haute joaillerie, is a historic Van Cleef & Arpels piece encouraged by Wallis Simpson, Duchess of Windsor, in the 1930s. Inspired by the simple suggestion of turning the then-revolutionary zip fastener into a jewel, the Zip necklace was brought to life in the 1950s. A familiar object reinvented and viewed through new eyes, the Zip necklace is a bold masterpiece that has shone through the years and features a zip that seamlessly alchemizes this piece into a necklace or bracelet. Since its launch in the 1950s, the Maison has recreated different versions crafted on metals, such as gold and platinum, adorned with precious stones like oval mauve sapphires and baguette-cut diamonds.

Contemporary and Heritage

Drawing inspiration from luck, nature, and the cosmos, collections like the Alhambra, Frivole, and Poetic Astronomy stand at the top of the Maison's examples of contemporary design.

The Alhambra

Crafted and re-envisioned in various materials such as onyx, malachite, and diamond-paved, the Alhambra quickly became an internationally recognized symbol for Van Cleef & Arpels. The Alhambra design integrates the Moorish-style quatrefoils to resemble the palaces of the Alhambra in Granada, Spain, giving rise to one of Van Cleef's most recognizable pieces.

The Frivole Collection

Another brilliant and timeless example is the Frivole Collection. Van Cleef's vision for this exquisite design was to recreate 'florals dancing in the wind' with motifs that appear to be moving and resemble the liveliness of nature. Frivoli necklaces and earrings were enhanced with emeralds, rubies, and diamonds, set on yellow, rose, and white gold and polished to a mirror like finish.

The Poetic Astronomy Collection

Sparkling with the grandeur of the cosmos, the Poetic Astronomy collection features celestial-themed pieces inspired by the Zodiac constellations, planets, and details of the cosmos. The Poetic Astronomy collection captures the dance of the planets and the stars, setting them on colorful gemstones with intricate details that enrich the final creations with deep emotions.

The Romeo and Juliet Brooches

Storytelling has always been at the heart of Van Cleef & Arpels, with deep, transcending emotions like love taking the main stage in the Maison's design backbone from its early beginnings. The Romeo and Juliet brooches are a testament to unparalleled craftsmanship, a reinterpretation of William Shakespeare's ultimate masterpiece, and a legacy of Van Cleef & Arpels to the world of jewelry. The Romeo and Juliet brooches take inspiration from the passionate journey of two lovers. Van Cleef & Arpels brings this work of art to life by recreating the story on white, rose, and yellow gold adorned with rubies, sapphires, lapis lazuli, and white and yellow diamonds that showcase the most intricate levels of three-dimensional craftsmanship.

Van Cleef's unwavering commitment to impeccable craftsmanship and innovation flows through its entire history, reaching beyond vintage Van Cleef & Arpels jewelry. The Maison's trademark extends to philanthropy and cultural preservation with a commitment to preserve the art of the craft. The Maison established the Van Cleef & Arpels School of Jewelry Arts in Paris in 2012, marking a testament to their mission of passing the heritage of jewelry craftsmanship.

Our Commitment to Timeless Elegance

In haute jewelry,  few names are as revered as Van Cleef & Arpels. The Maison's creations have long been synonymous with elegance and sophistication, gracing royalty, Hollywood, and icons of style for over a century. The Van Cleef story is not just about jewelry; it's about a passion for beauty, a dedication to craftsmanship and innovation, and an unwavering commitment to timeless elegance.

Looking to Sell?

Looking to sell or evaluate your vintage Van Cleef & Arpels jewels? Venture on a blissful experience and partner with Windsor Jewelers to receive the highest value for your jewelry.

Reach out to our expert team today to get started!

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